Five Happiness Restaurant

With its rich red wood and shiny black-lacquer decor, Five Happiness gives an extra polish to standard Chinese dining. During any dinner or lunch rush, the restaurant hums with activity. Huge dining rooms are packed, while waiters glide smoothly between tables, ranging from tiny two-tops to 20-person celebration spreads. At peak times, expect a bit of a wait.

The restaurant specializes in the spicy Szechuan and Mandarin dishes of the Chinese tradition. There's a good mix of noodles, clay pots, vegetarian specialties and non-standard seafood dishes. The wonton soup is a standout: Tender dumplings and thin pork shavings float in a bright, herb-spiked stock. The meaty combination lo mein features chunks of pork, beef and shrimp fragrantly combined with broad stir-fried noodles.