Wolfe's Restaurant

With its burgundy-leather banquettes, multilevel seating and pitch-perfect service, this renovated drugstore makes for a relaxed, understated neighborhood bistro. Traveling foodies and French Quarter neighbors frequent the classy narrow bar. Arrive early for generously poured cocktails or offerings from one of the city's outstanding wine lists.

While not self-consciously Creole in its outlook, Peristyle's menu adheres to the cornerstone of French cuisine (use the freshest local ingredients), and emerges with combinations that border on perfection. Veal sweetbreads arrive gently sauteed and served with goat cheese and pancetta. A pan-seared Gulf drum in almond-brown butter sauce replaces the traditional pan-fried trout muniere, and sauce work is flawless--a pinot noir bordelaise reduction raises a simple grilled venison dish to hearty perfection.