Bozo's Restaurant

Bozo's is known for its food, not its atmosphere: Windowless paneled walls, linoleum and grimy banquet chairs set the tone in the dining room. The oyster bar has a bit more character, with old-school beer clocks, hand-lettered signs and barstool regulars hashing out the good old days when "Bozo" Vodanovich opened the place back in 1928 on Broad Street.

What Bozo's lacks in ambience it makes up for with expertly prepared seafood. Fried catfish (the menu's only fish), shrimp and oysters come clean and greaseless on a variety of plates and platters. Broiled versions are equally appetizing, especially those stuffed with lump crabmeat dressing. Chicken and andouille gumbo, barbecue shrimp and stuffed artichoke are good, down-home starters. Even better are Bozo's signature oysters, which come plump and ice-cold.